Look Your Best at the Beach or in Pilates Class by Sewing Your Own Swimsuit & Leotard

Jan 28th, 2008 by Cheap Leotards

A wide range of pattern styles is available. Styles with princess seams are slenderizing. So are patterns with a center panel of a contrasting color; to minimize hips, use a dark color for the side panels. High-cut leg openings on swimsuits and leotards give the appearance of longer legs and a slimmer torso. For a full-busted figure, choose a pattern with a bustline shaped by darts or seams. To fill out a slender figure, use a pattern with shirring, draping, or ruffles. Or choose a simple pattern style and a splashy printed fabric to enhance a slender figure.

By sewing your own swimsuits and leotards, you can make garments that meet your needs. Add a full-front lining to a swimsuit, if desired; this is especially important for light-colored and lightweight fabrics. Or you may line just the crotch area or add a bandeau lining in the bust area. Purchased bra cups may be sewn into the bandeau if firmer support is desired.

Two-way stretch fabric stretches to fit the contours of many different figure types. Select the pattern according to the bust measurement to avoid extensive fitting adjustments at the bustline. If you require different pattern sizes for the hips and the bust, choose a multisize pattern, following the cutting lines for the appropriate sizes and blending the lines in the waistline area.

Sewing Swimsuits & Leotards

Before laying out a swimsuit or leotard pattern, determine which direction of the fabric has the greater amount of stretch. Nylon/spandex knits usually stretch more in the lengthwise direction; cotton/spandex, in the crosswise. For a comfortable fit, lay out the pattern on the fabric so the greater amount of stretch will encircle the body.

Swimsuits and leotards are fast and easy to sew. Most styles have only a few seams and edge finishes. Stitch the side seams and crotch seam first; then try on the garment and adjust the fit as needed.

If a one-piece swimsuit or leotard is too long in the torso, shorten it at the shoulder seams; if this raises the neckline, the neck opening can be trimmed as necessary. If the armholes are too small, causing the garment to bind under the arms, enlarge them by trimming the openings. Leg openings should fit smoothly; if they are too large, take in the side seams at the lower edge, tapering the seams gradually. Stitch the shoulder seams after the fitting, and apply the elastic.

Elasticized Edges

To stabilize edges and to ensure a snug fit on swimsuits and leotards, use elastic at necklines, armholes, waistlines, and leg openings. Elasticized edges also allow you to slip the garment on and off easily. Although elasticized edges do self-adjust to your figure, do not depend on them to solve fitting problems.

If you have not adjusted the neckline, armhole, or leg openings, cut the elastic to the lengths specified by the pattern. Most patterns print the cutting information for the elastic on the guide sheet or provide a cutting guide on the pattern tissue. If using a pattern with several views, be sure to cut the elastic for the style you have chosen; for example, a high-cut leg opening requires longer elastic than a standard leg opening.

Cotton braided swimwear elastic or transparent elastic may be used. Both types of elastic, with excellent stretch and recovery, are chlorine-resistant and salt-resistant. Most patterns call for 3/8″ (1 cm) elastic for adults’ swimwear and 1/4″ (6 mm) elastic for children’s.

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About the Author:

Bizhen Lu is a professional sewer. Her website is Free Sewing Tips

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